Crochet Hooded Unicorn Blanket

Jones Crafted

There are some things you think about making for awhile before you finally do. Then when you take that plunge you feel such a weight lifted.

It’s a creative weight. You carry so much creativity inside of you that it begins to weigh down on you. You can start to feel jumbled and conflicted; not knowing which project to tackle next. Being overwhelmed. It’s a common feeling in our maker world. We all feel this way at some point in our creative lives. We all make it through though, because we are strong. I mean, come on, we MAKE THINGS with our HANDS!

This particular instance is about an adorable hooded unicorn blanket. It has been swimming around in my head for awhile (about a year or so) and I have seen a couple other makers release patterns of their own lovely designs. This of course only put me down, making me believe I could no longer design my own pattern. Let me tell you; no matter what, there is ALWAYS room for you and your creativity.

Anyway, now that all that is out of the way. Let’s move on!

This hooded blanket is crazy simple and so cute!

In the future I will add more sizes for this but for now it is Toddler/Child size. I will put gauge and such so that you can figure out how to make it larger or smaller on your own, if so desired.

 

The Materials:

Yarn – I used Loops & Thread Country Loom in Ocean Tide for the blanket and ears. For the horn I used Stylecraft Life Chunky Prints in Dapple Grey from Love Knitting

  • About 624 yards of body color
  • Very small amount of yarn for horn
  • Small amount of yarn for mane; I used two different colors.

Hook – 10mm (blanket) and 8mm (horn and ears)

Poly-Fil or scrap yarn for horn

Measuring tape (optional)

Stitch markers (optional)

Scissors

Yarn Needle

JC Materials


The Stitches:

Ch – chain

Sl st – slip stitch

Hdc – half double crochet

Fhdc – foundation half double crochet

 

The Notes:

Do not join any rounds in this pattern. Everything in the round is worked continuously.

Numbers at the end of round ( -6) are the stitch counts for the rounds.

As I stated before, this is Toddler/Child size but it is super easy to adjust the size if needed.

 

Jones Crafted

 

The Pattern:

The Body

  1. With 10mm Hook FHDC 56
  2. Ch 1, turn. Hdc 56.
  3. Repeat step “2” for 46 rows. Fasten off and weave in ends.
  4. Count 15 stitches in and attach yarn by pulling up a loop and chaining 1. Hdc 26 across leaving 15 stitches unworked.
  5. Ch 1, turn. Hdc 26.
  6. Repeat step “5” for 16 rows.

Choose which side of the blanket you want to be the outside and flip it so it is inside out. Seam the hood together using your preferred method. Fasten off and weave in ends. Turn blanket right side out.

Reattach yarn at the junction where you made the hood; as seen in the photo below.

JC Hood Start copy

Single crochet up the side of the hood and back down the other side, ending at the other junction. Fasten off and weave in ends.

The Horn

Sc 6 in a Magic Ring

Working in back loops only-

  1. *Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next*. Repeat from * to * around. -9
  2. Sc in each st around. -9
  3. *Sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st*. Repeat from * to * around. -12
  4. Sc in each st around -12
  5. *Sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st*. Repeat from * to * around. -15
  6. Sc in each around. -15
  7. *Sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st*. Repeat from * to * around. -18
  8. Sc in each around. -18
  9. Sc in each around. -18

Fasten off leaving a generous tail to sew horn on.

The Ears

  1. 6sc in a magic ring. -6
  2. Sc in each st around. -6
  3. 2sc in each st around. -12
  4. Sc in each st around. -12
  5. Sc in each st around. -12
  6. *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st*. Repeat from * to * around. -18
  7. Sc in each st around. -18
  8. Sc in each st around. -18
  9. Sc in each st around. -18

Fasten off leaving generous tail to sew onto head.

Assembly

Slightly stuff the horn and sew onto the middle of the hood.

Sew the ears on either side of the horn. I like to use pins to ensure everything is placed just so.

Jones Crafted

Add the mane:

  • Cut strands of yarn twice the length that you wish the mane to be. For example, if you would like the mane to have 6″ strands of yarn, cut 12″ strands.
  • Fold in half.
  • Insert hook into desired stitch.
  • Grab yarn and pull through stitch but not all the way. This creates a loop.
  • Pull tail of yarn through loop.

Jones Crafted

The length, width, and fullness of the mane is COMPLETELY up to you! I made the front of my mane shorter, like a cute little flower crown! Then longer in the back. Play around with ideas and see what you like best. It is so easy to take it out and redo it as many times as it takes for you to find what you love!

Jones Crafted

Finito!

If you have any questions at all you may leave a comment, email me at jonescrafted@gmail.com, or contact me via Instagram @jonescrafted!

I would also love to see anything you make from my patterns on Instagram, just tag me @jonescrafted or use #jonescrafted!

Thank you so much for stopping by!!

~You may sell items that you make using my patterns, please link back to my blog. Please do not copy my patterns and claim them as your own. All images are property of JonesCrafted.~

 

 

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Self Striping Slouchy Hat

self-striping-hat-graphic

 

I LOVE slouchy hats! I just love the way they droop in the back. I love the airy feeling they offer. And they are so aesthetically pleasing!

SO, I took the time and wrote up my own hat pattern, which for the most part is pretty generic as far as hats go. You can really only do so many different things with hats when increasing and such. But who is going to complain about another free hat pattern out there?

This hat is called “self striping” because of the yarn that I used. Obviously, you can use any yarn that you wish, but using certain variegated yarns will give a striping effect. I believe any color-way from the Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable line would do this.

head-on

The Materials:

Yarn-I used Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable in Dragonfly and Tidal.

Hook-5.5mm for body of hat, 5mm for band.

Stitch Marker; if needed

Scissors

Darning Needle

 

The Abbreviations:

Sl st – Slip stitch

Sc – Single crochet

Hsc – Half single crochet

Hdc – Half double crochet

Fphdc – Front post half double crochet

Bphdc – Back post half double crochet

 

The Notes:

This hat is worked in one continuous round. You will not join at the end of each round, you will continue going until you reach the band. Once you reach the band, you will start joining. Use a stitch marker to help keep track if you need.

The number in the parenthesis is the number of stitches you should have at the end of each round.

If you need the hat to be larger or smaller, either add more increase round, or take some away. This pattern is for an adult size hat.

 

The Pattern:

Magic Ring

Round 1: Ch 1, Hdc 12 into MR. Do not join. (12)

Round 2: 2hdc in each stitch around. (24)

Round 3: *2hdc in next stiitch, hdc in next* Repeat around. (36)

Round 4: *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 st* Repeat around. (48)

Round 5: *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 st* Repeat around. (60)

Round 6: *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 st* Repeat around. (72)

Round 7: *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 st* Repeat around. (84)

self-striping
Hat should measure between about 6.5″ and 7″ when finished increasing.

Round 8-17: Hdc in each stitch around until last 8 st. Sl st in last 8 st. (84)

Switch to the 5mm hook for band.

Round 18: Ch 1. In next st, *sc decrease, sc in next 4 st * Repeat around. Sl st into first sc.

Round 19: Ch 1 *Fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st* Repeat around. Sl st to first fphdc. (84)

Round 20-24: Repeat round 19. This makes 6 rounds total of the band. If you would like the band to be longer, simply add more rounds. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Finito!

self-stripe

hats
As you can see, the hat is very versatile and you can easily change the size and look of the hat with more or less rounds in both the body and brim!

 

If you have any questions at all you may leave a comment, email me at jonescrafted@gmail.com, or contact me via Instagram @jonescrafted!

I would also love to see anything you make from my patterns on Instagram, just tag me @jonescrafted or use #jonescrafted!

Thank you so much for stopping by!!

~You may sell items that you make using my patterns, please link back to my blog. Please do not copy my patterns and claim them as your own. Please do not copy any of my images.~

Mini Chunky Triangle Scarf

MCTS JC

I have been making a TON of triangle scarves lately. In part due to my soon to be opening Etsy shop, and the other part is for a craft show I will be participating in this coming November. Aaaand maybe there’s a small-ish part of me that just LOVES the way they look and feel…maybe…

I was in the process of making one, and realized how cute it would look if I just stopped one row back and wore it just a little shorter than the usual giant triangle scarves.

I was right! It is so stinking cute, and better yet, you don’t have to sacrifice the warmth! It’s just as snuggly as the big ones, just shorter!

MCTS JC side
Even the mini version has amazing drape!

I know that there are a gazillion triangle scarf patterns out there, but hey, what’s one more beautiful scarf pattern?! This one is my go to pattern!

The Materials:

Loops & Threads In any color – Pictured are Ash, Black Rasberry, and Mulberry

10mm Crochet Hook

Scissors

Yarn Needle

 

The Notes:

Chain 3 always counts as a DC.

Try to have a loose tension; it helps with the chunky flow and helps add a beautiful drape.

This pattern is worked in rows, turn at the end of each row (after the ch 3).

 

The Pattern:

Chain 4.

Row 1: 2dc in the first chain. Chain 3, turn.

Row 2: 2dc in same stitch as ch 3. Ch 1, skip one dc, 3dc in top of first ch 3. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: 2dc in same stitch as ch 3. Ch1, 3dc in ch1 space from previous row. Ch 1, 3dc in top of ch3 from previous row. Ch 3, turn.

Row 4: 2dc in same stitch as ch3. *Ch1, 3dc in ch1 space.* Repeat from * to * to end of row. Ch 3, turn.

Row 5 – 15: Repeat row 4

Fasten off and weave in ends.

To make tassels, cut 6 strands of yarn at about 27-30 inches. Attach 3 strands to each of the two upper corners as pictured below.

MCTS2

Finito!

CTS JC.jpg
These are the full length Chunky Triangle Scarves!
~You may sell items that you make using my patterns, please link back to my blog. Please do not copy my patterns and claim them as your own. Please do not copy any of my images.~

I would love to see your finished projects of any of my patterns! Use #jonescrafted on Instagram!

As always, if you have any questions feel free to ask in the comments or email me at jonescrafted@gmail.com.

Thank you for stopping by!

~CJ

The Peafowl Cowl

Peafowl Cowl

This scarf was named for its colors. The second I finished this project it brought Peafowls to mind, which I love!

The Peafowl Cowl is a corner-to-corner scarf that is sewn together at the end making it an infinity scarf.

If you have not used the corner-to-corner (C2C) stitch yet, this is a must try! It is one of my favorite stitches of all time in part for its fantastic texture, but also because of the fact that you can use the “squares” made from each stitch to crochet graphs! If you are interested in the graphs you can check out my last post about the Owl Pillow Graph. There are so many graphs that you can use that it really is endless options.

I absolutely love how this came out, so I decided to write up a pattern for it not only so that other people could make it, but so I could remember what I did ;).

Notes:

-As soon as you start crocheting this scarf, you will be increasing every single row until you reach the width of the scarf. You will then decrease one side while increasing the other to continue building length. Once the scarf is long enough, you will decrease both sides until they meet at the final point.

-Each square is comprised of a chain 2 and 3 hdc.

The Materials:

Yarn- 2 Skeins of I Love This Yarn! in Nightwatch and 1 skein of Lion Brand Heartland in Great Smoky Mountains

Hook- 5 or 5.25mm and 4mm

Scissors

Needle for sewing scarf together and weaving in ends.

The Pattern:

With the 5mm or the 5.25mm, Chain 5

1 Hdc in third ch from the hook. Hdc in next two stitches, turn – 1 square made

Ch 5

1 Hdc in third ch from the hook. Hdc in next two stitches. – 2 squares made

Peafowl Cowl

Sl st into the chain space of the first square. (Ch 2, 3 hdc) into the chain space. – 3 squares made

Peafowl Cowl

Peafowl Cowl

Ch 5

1 Hdc in third ch from the hook. Hdc in next two stitches. – 4 squares made

Sl st into the next chain space. (Ch 2, 3 hdc) into ch space. – 5 sqaures made

Peafowl Cowl

Repeat these steps until you have a width of about 8-9 inches.

Peafowl Cowl

Now we begin decreasing.

When you reach the end of the row, instead of chaining 5, slip stitch into the top of each hdc from last square.

Peafowl Cowl

*(Ch 2, 3 hdc) into ch space*. Repeat * * to end.

Ch 5

1 Hdc into the third ch from hook. Hdc in next two stitches.

Continue increasing on this side and decreasing on the other. This will keep the width the same while increasing the length.

Peafowl Cowl
Make sure that you are only decreasing on one side.

After about 56 inches, begin decreasing on both sides.

The finishing length should be about 60 inches.

Sew the two ends together to make an infinity scarf/cowl.

The Edging:

  • Switch to the 4mm hook

(I only put the edging on one side, however, you may add it to both if you’d like.)

Attach Lion Brand yarn near the seam.

Ch 1, sc around and join to first sc. The sc row is in multiples of 3, so any number that is divisble by 3 will work.

Ch 6. Skip next two stitches, dc in next stitch.

*Ch 3, sk next two stitches, dc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * to the end. Join

Ch 1, (Sc, Hdc, Dc, Tr, Dc, Hdc, Sc) in each ch-3 space all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Finito!

JC C2C Edging

Thank you for stopping by! I hope you loved the Peafowl Cowl as much as I do!

If you have any questions at all, leave a comment or email me at jonescrafted@gmail.com

I would love to see your creations! Share on Instagram; #jonescrafted!

~You may sell items that you make using my patterns, please link back to my blog. Please do not copy my patterns and claim them as your own. Please do not copy any of my images.~

Owl Pillow Graph

I am in love with the “corner to corner” crochet technique. Not only is it one of those methods where you can mindlessly work it, but it also opens your projects up to a whole new world.

By this I mean GRAPHS! Just about any 8-bit or pixel images can be used with C2C (Corner to Corner). You can even use cross stitch patterns and perler bead graphs. There are several sites that allow to you to make your own graphs for free. Then you just save the image and write out the pattern, which I will explain how I do it in just a moment.

Here are the sites that I use, although there are others out there that you could use as well:

Kandi Patterns has a very simple graph maker and many existing graphs to browse through. This site is mostly for perler beads so some of the graphs will have rectangles rather than squares. This means that if you refer to a graph with rectangles and use the C2C method, your project image would come out slightly different than the graph.

My Photo Stitch is a cross stitch pattern maker, but if you have an idea of what you are doing and you try to stay under 10 colors, you will be just fine. This site actually has you load an image rather than create a picture from scratch. They take the image, along with some information on size and how many stitches you want, and create the pattern.

Pixel Art Maker is another simple one, the main difference with this one is the size. This one is larger than the Kandi Pattern Maker; which is only 50X50.

Make Pixel Art is once again, a simple one. I am adding this to the list simply because it will do the trick, but it doesn’t quite tickle my fancy so I don’t really use it.

Now onto reading the graphs and making the patterns.

Owl Pillow2 copy

I used (and most always use) Kandi Patterns. As you can see, when you save the image from this site, it provides the colors that you used in thumbnails at the bottom. Convenient!

I wont go into detail about how to make this stitch. I think that this video by Mikey from the Crochet Crowd is wonderfully explained and he covers EVERYTHING that you need to know about this crochet stitch. If you haven’t watched anything from Mikey before, go. Go now. He’s silly and you’ll enjoy his commentary along with the generous free pattern tutorials.

When writing out the pattern for the graphs (which I highly recommend doing so as to not lose your place) you will count diagonally in the same way that you will be crocheting it. I always start on the bottom right corner of the graph. Your even numbered rows will always be the “columns (vertical)” and the odd numbered rows will always be the “rows (horizontal)”.

This is something that I personally do, if this is not how you do it, that is perfectly fine! You can follow your graphs ANY way that you please!

I typically print my graphs out and write the row numbers along the sides of the image. This is a good way to keep your place. If you don’t plan on using the printed graph again, you could cross off rows as you go, but I like to reuse mine so I make sure to neatly number the rows.

I also like to create a legend so that I do not have to write out the color names every row. So for tan I write “T”, purple; “P”, orange; “O”, white; “W”, etc. Obviously if you have colors such as pink and purple, use another letter to help differentiate them in your pattern.

I will give you an example using the purple owl that my daughter created; starting with rows 1 through 13 which are all white, I would write:

Row 1-13. White

Row 14. 4W 1O 9W

Row 15. 15W

Row 16. 4W 2O 10W

This was this year’s Mother’s Day gift to my mother from myself and my daughter. We both made a purple owl and I made a two sided pillow. These little owls now live in my mother’s office! They will have plenty of sun and foliage!

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If you have ANY questions, please feel free to ask away!!

Thank you so much for stopping by!

~CJ

 

Crocodile Stitch Skirt

crocodile-stitch-skirt-graphic

I was making the Mermaid Tears Purse from Yarnspirations. Right before I added the handles to the purse I realized how crazy cute it would be as a skirt! So of course I attempted to finish up my fifteen or so WIP’s (I’m pretty sure I added more to that count) before moving onto this idea.

Finally I am here! It is essentially the same body as the purse, with a different starting chain and a different amount of rows. Then the band at the top of the skirt is completely different.

purple-croc-skirt

 

I used “I Love This Yarn” from Hobby Lobby. You could use any yarn and hook combination that you prefer, however, you may need to adjust your starting chain, If you use a DK yarn or lighter, you will need a longer starting chain. With bulkier yarn you will need a shorter starting chain.

The starting chain is worked in multiples of 7, so if you need to make it longer or shorter you will add or subtract 7. The starting chain will always be 7+3. If you don’t know what this means; you will chain in multiples of 7 and add 3 at the end.

The Materials:

Yarn – Any worsted weight yarn will do. I used “I Love This Yarn” in Dark Denim, Glacier, and Antique White.

Hook-5.5mm

Scissors

Darning needle

Stitches Used:

Slip Stitch – Sl st

Single Crochet – Sc

Double Crochet – Dc

Front Post Half Double Crochet – Fphdc

Back Post Half Double Crochet – Bphdc

The Pattern:

4T-5T

Step 1. Chain 77. Sl st to join, making sure that you are not twisting your chain.

Step 2. Ch 3, dc in each st around and sl st to the top of the ch 3. Ch 1.

Step 3. You will now be making your first scale using the crocodile stitch. If you have never done this before, I will try to explain as best that I can. It helps to turn your work when making this stitch for a better angle. Working in the first dc post (ch 3), dc 5 times on that post. Turn your work again so that you can see the second dc next to the one you just worked onto. Work 5 dc onto that post. ch 1. (You will always ch 1 after making a scale.)

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Chain 3 Post
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Second Post

Scales

Step 4. Skip the next 5 dc. In the 6th dc post, begin step 3.

Croc Stitch Skirt 8

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Repeat steps 3 and 4  to the end. Sl st into the beginning ch 1.

Step 5. Sl st 5. Ch 3.

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Step 6. Dc in same st as ch 3. *Dc in next 2 st. Dc into the scale. Dc in the next 2 st. 2dc in next st.* Repeat * to *. Sl st to top of ch 3. Ch 1.

Crocodile Stitch Skirt2

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Sometimes it can look a little wonky, that is ok, you are going to make the crocodile stitches over this anyway so it will not be seen.

Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 for 12 rows. (If you need it to be longer, add however many rows you wish. Take rows away if you want it to be shorter.)

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Your scales will sit in between the scales from the previous rows.

The next part is the waist band. I made mine on the shorter side but if you would like to have a longer waistband, add more of the front post and back post rows.

Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Sl st to the ch 1.

Ch 1. Fphdc in the first st. *Bphdc in the next st, fphdc in the next st.* Repeat * to * to the end. Sl st to the ch 1.

Ch 1. Sl st in each st around. Sl st to the ch 1. Fasten off and weave in your ends!

Crocodile Stitch Skirt - Jones Crafted

As I make more of these I will add the new sizes to this post. So stay tuned!

~CJ


You may sell items that you make using my patterns, please link back to my blog. Please do not copy my patterns and claim them as your own. Do not copy any images.

The Chunky Nimbus Cowl

JC Nimbus Cowl

First off I would like to welcome everyone to my blog! This is my first official post on this blog and I am so excited to start this part of my journey! Now, onto the Chunky Nimbus Cowl!

I was roaming through Micheal’s as one does when they have a beating heart, and I found the Bernat Baby Blanket Yarn. It looked so soft and as soon as I picked it up I knew it needed to keep my neck warm in the colder weather. I bought about four skeins and ended up going back for more colors. This yarn was meant for baby blankets, so you KNOW it’s plenty soft!

It is a chunky yarn so it works up quicker which is great because once you start working with it the anticipation nearly gets you! This is also one of those patterns that is super versatile and so there really isn’t a gauge and you can make your starting chain and overall length anything that you want! I LOVE patterns that allow you to adjust so easily! I have made some that are short cowls and some that are so long you can wrap them two or three times.

THE PATTERN:

Yarn- Bernat Baby Blanket

Hook- 10mm

JC Materials Edit

Make a chain that measures between seven and nine inches.

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Row 1: Hdc in the second chain from the hook. Hdc in every chain to the end. Ch 1

Row 2: Hdc in every hdc from previous row. Ch 1

Row 3: Sc in every hdc from previous row. Ch 1

Repeat rows 1-3 until the scarf reaches desired length.

Seam the two ends together, fasten off, and weave in the ends.

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If you are making a cowl, the scarf should measure between twenty-five and thirty inches.

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JC Nimbus Cowls

JC Nimbus Brown Cowl

If you are making a long infinity scarf that you can wear long or wrap twice, the scarf should measure between eighty and eighty-five inches.

JC Nimbus front

If you desire a longer scarf (or one in between my two lengths), simply crochet until you reach a length that feels right for you. You can easily see how long your scarf will be before you fasten off by wrapping it around your neck and holding the two ends together.

JC Nimbus long

There are so many different colors and they bring new ones out and discontinue some other ones. They have solid colors along with variegated colors just like you see below!

JC Nimbus Variety

Yay! Now you have a lovely cloud wrapped around your neck! I love how these feel so much and I hope that you love them too!

Thank you so much for joining me in my first post and I look forward to connecting with you all!

~CJ